Thursday, August 7, 2014

A Day in the Life of Ms. Riley


            I have been slacking on documenting my experience and for that I apologize but this term has been crazy and frankly has kinda sucked. I found myself working my butt off and not having time to sit down and write about what I’m doing. It’s unfortunate that this is the first time since March but such is life.
            I have realized that one of the reasons I have been so busy is because I play so many different roles throughout the day. I’m pulled in so many different directions that there leaves little time to myself which is fine but it’s been exhausting. Here’s a little insight into my daily life this past term.

7am – Teacher
Everyday I wake up in the morning, some days earlier than others and arrive at school to teach English. Some days are longer than others with my “library” classes but I generally am an English teacher 6 hours a day. We do listening comprehensions, reading techniques, grammar busy work, and class discussions on hostel life, corporal punishment, school uniforms, and who they admire most in life. 4 real classes and 2 “administration” periods that I should be able to use for grading, or preparing for future lessons/days.

7am-430pm – Babysitter
Part of the reason this term has been so horrible is because out of three months of school, there has been a fully present staff a total of 5 different days and only 28 actual days of learning in class. Absenteeism has been extremely high and there has been absolutely no planning for it. Substitute teacher are nonexistent out in the village so when a teacher fails to show up for class the kids are either left unsupervised in a classroom or are instructed to “find an open classroom”. After the principal and the head of department (vice principal who is a teacher), I teach the least amount of classes because I am only allowed to work a certain number of periods a week being a volunteer. So when the kids have nowhere to go the first teacher that is looked to is me. In a normal uncontrollable/emergency situation I would be completely fine with this. After all I am here to help but it got to the point that I would have the same kids in my classroom for three whole hours because there were no other teachers present to teach them or watch them. Had I been notified that I would take over a certain teacher’s classes for a whole week I would have prepared extra lessons for kids. I was never notified until the period started so what ended up happening was I babysat the kids. Half their teachers weren’t there to give them work and there is 5 hours outside of school that is set aside for mandatory study time so the kids had nothing to do but sit there causing trouble resulting in them not doing anything educational in school and me not being able to do anything while actually IN school. I tried to stay a step ahead of the game but when I would prepare extra lessons and extra work the kids would refuse to do it or refuse to come to my class. They would find another teacher that wouldn’t make them do anything then come and bother me because they were bored and doing nothing. No one was present to discipline the kids or keep them in line so I fought a loosing battle for a good 2 months.

3pm-430pm (Mondays and Wednesdays) – Volleyball Coach
Against my pleas and promises that I knew nothing about athletics I found myself as volleyball coach. There were actually three coaches but the other two failed to show up more times than they were there which left me flying solo with maybe a ball and/or a net, maybe not. Okay boys lets um do leg workouts. Okay run a lap, okay lets talk about sportsmanship and teamwork. Lets work on communication skills. I had a whistle and a loud voice but I’ll just recap the season as a fail. Nonetheless, the boys had fun, I think

After school – Tutor
Teachers being absent meant that lessons could not be taught meaning the kids had to learn the material and do the work without an actual teacher. The kids all know I am good with math and sciences so multiple times a week I had kids running to me terrified they were going to fail grade 8 because they did not understand why letters were now being used in their math books.

Nights and Weekend – Banking Services
Being stuck in a village for a month it can be really hard to budget your money if you don’t know anything about saving. Saving is not a value that many kids are taught by their parents so when they arrive at school for a month with money from home its all gone within a week or two and they are stuck. Then it turns into Miss Riley can I have 5$ to go to the movie night with everyone, Miss Riley I need 30$ to get home, Miss Riley I’m so hungry I just want a 10$ for bread. Instead of free handouts of food, money, soap, whatever I tell them they can have the amount of money they need if I get their cell phone or school shoes or something personal of value that I know they will want back. I lent kids money before and I was out like 150$ at the end of term one so now I have a system. It works quite well until I found out one of the cell phones that a kid gave to me for 10$ was in fact stolen from a girl in the hostel. Well that was a fail but his punishment was no more Miss Riley banking.
I also have a few kids give me their money after coming home so that 1) it doesn’t get stolen and 2) so that it doesn’t burn a hole in their pocket.

Nights/Weekends/Holidays – Cruise Director
I use the term cruise director in reference to my mother who always plans fun events and activities when friends and family come to stay at “Resort Riley”. Becoming my mother in yet another aspect I now consider myself the Cruise Director of the hostel and school. Being a teenager living in the middle of nowhere Namibia and not allowed to leave the hostel gates except on one weekend a month would drive anyone flipping bonkers. I don’t show it but I truly feel bad for these kids. I remember all the different things and activities I was involved in as a teenager and how it helped to balance my schoolwork and my students have none of it so what I have tried to do give them something to do in their free time. There’s only so many Harry Potter and Hunger Games books that grab kids attention so most of the time it is a movie night with the school’s projector (I know SO Peace Corps right) and if I’m feeling really generous with my time, I will make them popcorn to sell (Kelley Riley Popcorn to be exact).  Other events offered are sports activities, workout videos, cleaning Ms. Riley’s flat and doing some of her wash.

Random Times and Days – Doctor/Nurse
My kids are violent, they’re mostly city kids with dark pasts and so you throw them all in a hostel together with hormones they punch walls, scratch each other, and bash each others faces. At 8pm just last Thursday night I had a kid at door with blood running down his hand. He punched a wall and needed a Band-Aid. Okay here are two, don’t punch walls any more. Sometime they fell playing soccer and a simple Band-Aid wont help at all but like every little kid, its like a miracle drug and all of a sudden they are all better.
About a month ago I had a girl who fell and knocked her head on a concrete step. Okay come in, sit down let me look at your eyes, here’s an ice pack (which is actually a bag of spirit alcohol I purchased in Malawi for purposes like this), talk to me for a half hour, let me assess if you have a concussion, no you’re good. Just take some pain pills and take it easy.
Flu season was pretty bad. That was lots of hot water with lemon. Miss my head is paining and I don’t feel good. Okay how long has it hurt, how much water did you drink today, you need to drink more and take some pain pills before bed and try to sleep early.
There was one day during study where a kid came up to me asking if he could sit with a girl to get something out of his hand. There was the Namibia equivalent of a sliver in his hand meaning it was a microscopic thorn that had broken off in his hand when he as playing soccer in the location. It was his writing hand and he said it hurt a lot so I said yes if she could get it out okay that’s fine just stay quiet. Wait do you have tweezers? No can I go outside to get the thing she uses? She’s really good, she knows what to do. Okay whatever just don’t talk. Well the kid brings back an acacia thorn. For those of you who don’t know they are extremely long and strong thorns and getting one in your shoes unexpectedly pretty close to stepping on a Lego. Well the girl tries for about a half hour and gives up, no luck. Miss can you please try. Okay fine come here. I do not know how I did it but I managed to extract the microscopic thorn using the same kind of thorn that was in his hand. I felt like nurse of the year with that one, the kid was so happy and I felt really warm and fuzzy inside.

Weekends – Big Sister/Mentor/Life Coach
Most weekends kids are bored so they stop by to say hi but more often than not they come over with a story or a question. These range from girl fights, to troubled pasts, to bad friends, to relationships, to sex questions.
Ah Miss these girls in the hostel they are all two-faced and talk about you behind your back. Yeah well unfortunately it doesn’t get better as you get older, there will always be people that don’t like you and that say bad things all you gotta do is learn to keep your head up.
Miss theres this girl that I like but the problem is she has another boyfriend who she doesn’t want to break up with because he has a heart problem and she doesn’t want to make him sick. Okay hun you are too young to date and even if you do like where are you gonna go? You’re not allowed to leave the hostel grounds or even have relationships in the hostel. Go write me an essay about it.
Miss you know a lot of like stuff right? Like these STI’s or whatever? Well theres a guy at the hostel who has a something on his something and everyone is saying is herpes. Okay well it could be that or another infection, but it could also just be a pimple, it happens but if it starts to hurt or grow he needs to go right to the clinic. Okay thanks Miss.
I even had one day where there were three large boys at my door at 1130 in the morning asking for their essay books and toothpaste. These were not the most dedicated of students and it was a Thursday and there was no school, some holiday that meant everyone got the day off,.1130am, three extremely large boys asking for toothpaste and homework why? They were drunk as skunks and thought it was funny. Between breakfast at 630am and right at that moment these boys managed to leave the hostel grounds get their hands on a fifth of whiskey and finish it before coming back to school. I was furious, not only at them and their stupidity (actually one was 18 so he was technically legally allowed to drink) but also for the lack of security and supervision on the part of the adults at the hostel. They wanted the toothpaste to mask the smell but I knew that even if I gave it to them it wasn’t going to help much. Now with them showing up at my door, I was either an accomplice or the one to rat them out. These boys would be expelled from the hostel and unable to attend school to finish the term if anyone found out they had been drinking. I began to interrogate them: who let you leave the hostel, how long were you gone, who did you buy it from, where did you drink it, WHY DID YOU COME TO MY HOUSE IN THIS STATE HAVEN’T YOU LEARNED ANYTHING, WHY, WHY, WHY? Their answer: Miss, its because we trust you. We’re not going to make any trouble, we were bored, had nothing to do, and wanted to have some fun. We just wanted you to help us with some toothpaste and we are going to bed. I ended up not ratting them out, because while I realized it would have been the correct “adult” thing to do, these boys trusted me. They skipped my class most Fridays, would sleep on other days, one of them once threw a dead bird into my classroom, and not one teacher trusted them to do anything productive ever, but they trusted me and the last thing I wanted to do was break that. I wanted to make sure that in the event that they really screwed up, that they knew they could come to me for genuine help. In the end, it was a good gesture and I really thought I was going to get somewhere with these boys but since then all three have been expelled from the hostel or other incidents and only two returned to finish school. Well I tried.


Days are long and many are tough. You get defeated a lot but you also win a lot. Its not easy filling so many roles and being pulled in so many directions but it is worth it. Even if I only write one blog post a term…

Saturday, August 2, 2014

REDEEMED For Only A Short Period of Time…

            Zambia- Malawi was the bus company we should have taken on the way to Malawi. It was leaving 5 hours later so we decided to go with the earlier bus and regretted it deeply. Let me say, it certainly redeemed itself. To begin with, the bus actually left ON TIME. I almost wanted to cry or kiss the driver at this point. We noticed some milk crates in the aisles and were nervous at first that they were going to over pack the bus. NOPE at the first rest stop a few hours in (which by the way if you weren’t off and on in about 10 minutes they left without you) they filled the crates with Fanta! Alright  this was nice, now since we weren’t going to stop again if we were thirsty we could by a nice drink. Ummmm no this was a complimentary drink which came with a pack of shortbread cookies. They even came around with a bottle opener because they were glass bottles! We were astonished that the other company even still existed. They played some gory movie as we ate our snacks then to make our jaws drop even more, they came around with a garbage bag. At the next stop the crates were gone and we could safely move up and down the rows again. It really was a lovely bus ride.
            We arrived in Lusaka and shuttled off to Livingstone where we were going to stay for the night. This was quite an uneventful bus ride, we were exhausted, so close to home and familiar faces and languages, but we got to watch the new Escape Plan movie! Nothing says kick back and relax like two of America’s greatest action stars in one movie.
            Livingstone is home to one of the greatest natural wonders of the world, Victoria Falls. We were meeting up with a bunch of other volunteers at a super fun backpackers hostel and had a nice relaxing night. All we needed to do was travel one more leg to Namibia and another to our nearest home in Rundu. It was going to be quick and easy and even better, we found a guy at the hostel with a new car that was willing to drive us for free. PERFECT. OH THANK HEAVEN.
            As with every other leg of the trip that we thought would be easy, this one did not fail to disappoint in that department. Yes the car was new however so were the tires. The tires were also a size too big for the car so when 5 grown adults with their hiking packs that are overstuffed with souvieners from a foreign land, the car rides pretty low. Add that to the fact that this short 100km road was a land mine of potholes that could destroy a small sedan in one wrong swerve of the wheel. We are now traveling at about one third of the speed we should be going and stop every now and then to check the tires which are rubbing and grinding on the low wheel well. It was slightly irritating, I would have paid for a fast taxi, but the guy was nice; he was actually a soccer player in the Netherlands so he was moving back to his home of Zambia for the winter.
            The cake topper of the leg was actually when we got stopped by a police check point. We stop, the guy and the police woman chat. Between the 4 of us we speak/understand more than 5 languages spoken in southern Africa but of course this is one of the languages we do not know. The driver is now in the small police shack and keeps coming back and forth going through papers trying to find something. We ask if everything is okay and he embarrassingly confesses that while the car is “new” he bought it from someone else and failed to change the official ownership. So in other words, to the police this vehicle carrying 4 white people and a Zambian who has been living in Europe making a fortune for the past few years, is technically stolen. WTF.  
            No big deal though, just pay a simple bribe and we can be on our way. BUT the guy has no money and now has to ask us for whatever we have. We empty our pockets but have next to nothing in Zambian. The police tried to flex a little muscle by bringing out their armed guards but I think they realized we literally had nothing and let us go. The driver felt so bad and promised us he would pay us back when we got to the border town. Well at least he would have had the only ATM in the border town accepted his international VISA. Okay just cross the border with us and take out money in Katima. Oh he doesn’t have his passport either. I don’t know what was going through this guys mind when he got in his car to drive but it obviously wasn’t making sure he had his passport or money on him…
            We eventually arrived at the border, crossed, and found hikes to Home Sweet Rundu in Namibia. The trip to Malawi was an adventure to say the least. It gave me heart attacks multiple times a day until I just told myself I was going to die, then I thought I was going to die multiple times a day.

            We conquered southern Africa in one piece but not without some painful and scary souvenirs. For those who do not know, for as beautiful as Lake Malawi is, a large majority of it is the primary drinking, washing, and waste source for thousands of villages. In the northern part where we were staying there have not been any “reported” cases of ailments such as schisto (a parasite that can be contracted on skin contact with infected water) but there was definitely something. Any small cut or scratch became infected within a day or two. Another guy and I each had a nice infected blister that resulted in a hole in my foot for about 2 weeks (don’t worry I still have my foot and its all healed….I think)  Nothing a few doses of antibiotics can’t clear up. Nice try Africa.

Now That is a Tweet

We were sad to leave and say goodbye to our little hidden paradise, we were also kinda dreading the trip back. Especially with our overstuffed bags full of souvenirs, June and I definitely did not think that one through. We felt confident though that we knew what to expect so it was going to be better than the trip there.
            The first leg we knew we’d be on an overstuffed bus back to Lilongwe the capital. When we arrived at the Mzuzu bus station we had two options. 1) get on a bus that was leaving pretty much now but not have a seat for probably the whole 7 hours. or 2) get on another bus with open seats but leave when it is full. We still had no idea of the situation getting back to Zambia so we took the gamble of the quicker leaving bus. We fought with the manager that we would get on his bus but would not pay the full price if we had to stand the whole time. “Oh but you will get a seat! People get off at every stop there will be plenty of places to sit!” We told him fine, if we get a seat, we will pay the difference when we get off. After much arguing, he agreed.
This was a bit of a crappy gamble to take. My height worked to my disadvantage, I could reach the overhead shelf that was the only place to hold on to but as a result my hand cramped up often and I pulled the muscles in my shoulders. If I didn’t hold on, I fell on whoever was next to me and that would have been a heck of a lot more uncomfortable. The bus begins to move and I feel some intense gusts of wind at my feet. Hmmm someone must have moved their dress or skirt or blanket or something… but then I feel it again and now two women are looking under their seats and kicking at something. There is a live chicken underneath the bus seat next to me. I give a horrified look to Derek and mouth “OMG this is Africa.” The owner promptly grabs the chicken and shoves it back into the back full of dried fish that she had placed under the seat in front of her. I don’t know what happened to the chicken or if she got off soon after that, but that was the last we heard of it. Well I should say, that was the last we heard of that particular chicken.
I started hearing chirps, cute little high pitched ones. I casually looked around, not wanting to make a big deal out of it and my eyes come to rest on a small chicken tied in a grocery bag with its head sticking out. It probably wasn’t too happy, hence the chirping and eventually the little guy got shoved up in the overhead compartment between some bags. Personally, I think he got the best seat on the bus… It was in all respects a real live Tweet… and probably worthy of an actual Twitter post.
I was jealous the chicken got a seat and I didn't


Just to let you know, we only found seats with about 1 hour left. I don’t know if people were just rude, or clueless, or it just wasn’t customary but the whole ride us in the aisles were pretty much confined to the front half of the bus. Even though there were people getting on at every stop and there were like 10 people deep in just the door landing no one would move further back. Instead they just stood, packed like sardines where they were. I tried asking people to move to make more room and they either looked at me, or they stepped aside to let me go in the back. Wasn’t even worth it.
We finally arrive in Lilongwe at about 3 or 4pm and begin looking for a bus to Lusaka. To our horror, the only bus to Lusaka left a few hours ago and to put the topper on the cake, the next one won’t leave for another 3 days. After our after dark experience in Lilongwe on the way here the last thing we want to do is be stuck here again. After much deliberation we decide that the best option is to get to Zambia as fast as possible. The sun was going to set in a few hours, and the Zambian border was about 150km away. Because it was over an international border there was no one we could call about busses or accomodations, all we knew was that there was one really nice expensive hotel across the border but no one really wanted to spend the money to stay there.
We negotiated a taxi to the border. 150km should have only taken us an hour or an hour and a half, MAYBE 2 hours which is why we heckled the driver so much.  Now before I continue my travel story, let me narrate you through the conversation we have with the driver as soon as we get in his car. We are driving away from the bus station and happen to be passing our super sketchy hotel that was our refuge for a few hours a week ago. We notice that there are some very skimpy? dressed women on the balconies, and theres a lot of them too. Hahah interesting, it kinda looks like a whore house doesn’t it? Wouldn’t that have been a funny story. As we whisper our speculations to each other, I decide screw it, lets ask the driver. “Hey what do you know about that hotel? Do those women…work there…?” “Oh yes that is a place where you can go and pay someone to have sex with you.” HAHAH WUT? Are you serious? “Yeah they charge 1,300 flat rate but some guys don’t like it because they spend the 1,300 and it only lasts 3 mintues!!!  HAHAHAH Then they want some of their money back!!” The four of us exchange horrified glances. THAT’S why the guy only wanted to give us one room! THAT’S why the rooms were so barren. THAT’S why there was a big scary bouncer at the door. THAT’S why the bus drivers always stay there. OH GOD THAT’S why my bed only had one pillow! We compose ourselves and I then clue in our driver “We thought that was a real hotel and we stayed there on our way in.” He then clues US in on a tip that would have been a lot more useful a week ago. “Oh yes! If you ever need a cheap place to stay just go there and for 1,300 you can sleep for the night. You don’t even need to have sex with the woman, just send her home or let her hang out while you sleep.”

Thoughts running through our heads:
“We literally could have been taken.”
“I don’t know if the guys were protecting the girls, or the girls were protecting the guys that night when we split up for security purposes.”
“OMG those dudes totally ripped us off, charging 5,500 each for 3 hours in our rooms. Had we known it was a brothel we would have ordered 2 hookers for about half the price one of us paid.”
“I hope the sheets were clean.”
“I can now put SLEEP IN A BROTHEL on my bucket list and cross it off.”
“At least the bus manager kinda had our best interests in mind.”

After some self-reflection during our overly long taxi ride we arrive at the Zambian border. It is now dark, we have no information on where to stay or when busses to Lusaka leave and no way to get that information. The border guys told us there was a cheaper place, the taxi guys will know where it is.
After battling the vulture–like cab drivers we get in a cab and ask him if he knows where this hotel is. He does but then as we begin thinking we realize we should probably head to the bus station first to prepare for the next morning. At this point we are starving, we left at 7am after breakfast and it is now about 8pm at night, we are tired after having stood with our arms over our heads for 7 hours, and while we were happy to be in Zambia the only thing we wanted was to be back in Namibia. Pulling up to this bus station the cab was instantly surrounded with people grabbing at it, hitting the window to get our attention and business, and trying to yell a conversation with us through the window of a moving vehicle. Even as I was sitting in the car with June outside talking with everyone making a deal there were still people tapping on the window. When June and Brandon stuck their bodies half inside the car to speak with me and Derek about our options there were still people trying to shove their faces, hands, whatever in our faces and all over the window. I was really stressed out, did not want to end up in another brothel and knew we had a long way to go still. Actually I think we were all at our breaking points and so June whipped around and yelled LEAVE US ALONE WE HAVE A LOT OF FEELINGS! and it was topped off by Derek not even missing a beat and yelling SHE DOESN’T EVEN GO HERE! Mean Girls for the win. Mood lifted J
We jump back in the cab, thank him for dealing with us and hanging around while we figured everything out but then asked him to take us to pick up some food. We had no idea where this hotel we were planning to go to was but we kept seeing signs and although the cab driver didn’t know exactly where it was he had already helped us so much that instead of asking him to wait for us again instead to pick us up at the store the following morning at 4am. He agreed however we quickly realized that our hotel was not within walking distance by any means but actually another cab ride away. We found this out as we just walked aimlessly around Chipata and someone finally stopped. We get to the hotel then cut a deal with this guy to pick us up at 4am. Sorry first cabby, you didn’t know where you were going…
We sneak two extra people into our overpriced hotel and enjoy not only the comfy bed and hot shower but also the CABLE MOVIE CHANNEL on the TV in our room. Haven’t seen one of those in like 10 months…

We wake up the next morning and are ready to go and the cab never shows up… we try to use the receptions phone but she will not let us, nor her personal phone. It made me wonder how they can be such a nice expensive hotel and accept Visa and MasterCard yet they don’t let visitors use their phone to do something like find a ride. We offered to pay her yet she still wouldn’t budge. Instead what she did was pick up the phone and call the security guard outside and had him come inside to call a ride for us. Lesson learned: Security guards are always reliable. He called a guy he knew for us and in 20 minutes we were at the bus station comfortably on a Zambia-Malawi bus ready for the leg of the trip that was hell on the way here.

Our Chalet Had TWO Showers!

While we were sad to leave the atmosphere of Butterfly we were super excited to start our vacation we had been dreaming of for the past few months. We packed up our things and said goodbye to the owners, fellow volunteers and small geckos in our rooms and headed over. You know they say patience is a virtue? Yeah well this place was completely worth the wait and all the travel. For 10 USD each a night we had a beautiful private stone chalet with two bedrooms, a private bathroom (complete with flushing toilet!), and not one but TWO showers: one indoor and one outdoor.
            Every morning we woke up, walked down to the restaurant and ordered a French press of specialty Mzuzu coffee, which was a nice break from the instant we normally we drink at home, and drank it over looking lake Malawi. Afternoons were occasionally spent going into town. It was about a 20 minute walk on a foot trail through the trees. While I never spotted any African wildlife, Derek one day found large monitor. Don’t worry, he still has all his fingers and toes. Town was on the water, full of small shacks selling anything from USB speakers to dried fish, to individual bags of alcohol. Avocadoes were sold for about 25c (US) and tomatoes even cheaper. Grab a few onions, a lemon (if you could guess if it was a lemon, a lime, or an unripe orange) and you have some homemade guacamole which you can eat by your hands or smeared on bread. You could also purchase stalks of sugar cane for something sweet, bags of frozen water, and our favorite, shitenges.
I actually don’t know how to spell this word so you probably cant Google it but these are the large pieces of fabric that women in Africa utilize to dress themselves, wrap things in to put on their head, or use to tie babies on their backs. Highly functional. Each different southern Africa country makes different patterns or prints. In Namibia we only see a select few ones but now that we were in Malawi close to all these other countries the various options were just overwhelming. Once we selected our various prints we were directed down a small alley to a man in a shack with a sewing machine. Over the course of the week he made us girls 7 wrap around skirts and the boys 3 pairs of drawstring shorts. They were our favorite souvenirs and I really liked the personal side of the process. With broken English we explained to the shitenge lady what colors we wanted or what kinds of prints we liked. With Uncle Jozy we talked about the length and that we wanted it to wrap around and which part of the print we wanted. With the boys shorts Derek went back for a second pair and asked for something slightly different like making the crotch shorter and Uncle Jozy did it perfectly. If this man could live with me and make all my clothes, I’d be happy and wouldn’t need my mom to take me shopping anymore.  
After hiking back up to our lodge we would go for a swim. Sometimes for the second time that day and mostly likely not the last. We could relax in the fresh water, cooling off from the hot humidity of Malawi, take a canoe pretty much anywhere our hearts desired (there aren’t many safety precautions in the third world we pretty much had the giant lake at our beckoning call - if we wanted to try canoeing to Tanzania I don’t think anyone would have stopped us), and our favorite, snorkeling. If you haven’t Googled Lake Malawi yet, please do so now, the waters are absolutely crystal clear. Like you can see 20 feet down in some parts. There are over 500 species of fish in the lake meaning when you stick your head underwater with some goggles on, its like swimming in a fish tank. 1 fish, 2 fish, red fish, blue fish doesn’t even cut it. There were yellow and silver and orange and blue and green and iridescent and even some crabs! I felt like Ariel, most particularly at one point I was playing around on some rocks and shimmied my butt up one by strategically moving every time a wave crashed into me. I may or may not have started singing Part of Your World while some Europeans questioned my sanity.
Speaking of Europeans, Mayoka Village, just like Butterfly Space, hosted a bunch of travelers from all over the world. There were Israelis, South Africans, Europeans, Brazilian (wearing speedos), other Americans (Peace Corps Volunteers included) all backpacking through Africa and all over the world. There were people by them selves, in groups, in pairs, old, and young, it was a really great experience to get to hear about their lives and to share our stories as well.
Dinner was always a featured meal that needed pre-ordering, it ranged from pizza night, to Indian night, to barbeque night. It was all prepared fresh, homemade, and for the most part organic down by the water and served after dark. It was just so good.
Evenings were spent after dinner hanging out, being really classy drinking individual bags of alcohol mixed with various Fanta flavors. My new personal favorite that was discovered only in Malawi was Fanta Passion Fruit. Don’t know what distributer that was but I made sure to get my fill before I left that country. Occassionally we would go for a night swim which thinking back was probably quite dangerous. In the third world there are no lights anywhere and while we were told that there are stories of crocodiles on the southern part of the lake, you never know. It was worth it sitting out on a floating raft looking at the stars, if only that darn moon wasn’t so bright…
We would shower (indoor or outdoor, nighttime also had less competition for the fire heated hot water), sleep, wake up and do it all over again. It really was in a true sense a vacation. I think everyone is guilty of planning vacations and then packing their days with excursions and activities. This is fun and great and all but I think a lot of times we forget that we are “on vacation.” While I fully support doing everything there is to do and having as many experiences as you can, make sure that you take that time for yourself. Wake up leisurely, have breakfast freshly made to order for you, look out at a body of water or a mountainous landscape or a desert plain and do some self reflection. Let’s be real, even if you get restless doing those things like I normally do at least you did it and maybe for the first time in your life, nothing will be expected of you. Being in the Peace Corps you are already distanced from life and technology and whatever but I still have a cell phone that I can contact a whole 100 people with, and other methods of contacting my family and friends back home. In Malawi, we had no cell reception and internet service only in the bar and restaurant area which only worked sometimes. If you wanted to just go hide from the world, you totally could. I’m also willing to bet that if you never wanted to go back to the real world, no one would ever be able to find you to force you to.

By all means if you have the opportunity to go see a wonder of the world, go see it, if you have the chance to go to a city you have never been before go do it, but if you have the time to just go off the grid and get away from the world and immerse yourself in another life, do that. whether its on a lake in sub-Saharan Africa, or a dude ranch in the Western United States, or a cabin in another part of your state. Just go and don’t worry about a thing. Worse comes to worse, if you hate it, you never have to do it again. J




Morning coffee

Mayoka Village from the water

Our cozy little chalet for 10USD per night per person